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  • hardie karges 12:18 pm on February 24, 2017 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: , Kampot, , Otres Beach, Sihanoukville   

    Sihanoukville and Kampot, Kampuchea: Foreign Arrogance, French Elegance, Khmer Endurance… 

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    Serendipity Beach Road barely existed ten years ago…

    First the bad news: Cambodia is the trashiest place on Earth, bar none, so you won’t have to wait for my end-of-year Worst List. And this is not cool for what once was SE Asia’s premier culture, mother to all others and father to a few, too. At first I thought maybe it was just Koh Kong, since that’s where I entered, but no—it’s everywhere. I haven’t seen trash on the street like this since Paracas, Peru, and Africa is infamous, of course…

    Other than that, it’s a pretty nice place, and a far cry from what you would’ve found twenty, ten, even five years ago, when cops would stop you on the street to get paid, and 16-year-old hookers from Vietnam would do pretty much the same. But that was before the big tourism boom, what with casinos, easy visas and ancient ruins the big draws, unless you go for the Dark Side. I’m sure some of that still exists. All that glitters is not Gary… (More …)

     
    • tom 1:17 pm on February 24, 2017 Permalink | Reply

      Hey travel brother! Its tom here. In 2008 when last at siem riep it seemed to have grown to at least twice its size! And did ya see the mini version of kao san rd bangkok style. By the riverside in town with bars on every corner and pricey pizzarias and loud music and drunkeness? Ill tell ya though those ruins are s.e. asias egypt for jaw dropping sights! Wish i had another few weeks to see mtns and sihanoukeville. To also compare to what i saw in 2008? Still i believe they have the best english pronunciation in all s.e. asia right down to the tuktuk drivers! Keep on truckin

      • hardie karges 2:53 am on February 25, 2017 Permalink | Reply

        I haven’t been to Siem Reap since 1997, and have no plans to, pinning all my hopes on Saen Monorom in Mondulkiri to beat the heat. Koh Kong my favorite place so far, simply because there are few travelers there, so still ‘authentic’ FWIW. Where are you now?

  • hardie karges 11:55 pm on February 20, 2017 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: , , Koh Kong, ,   

    Welcome to Kampuchea: Koh Kong, Life on the Border… 

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    Sunset at Koh Kong, Kampuchea

    …any border, is weird, by definition, sample TJ (Tijuana), TG (Tangier), TK (Tachilek) and TU (Tecun Uman) for starters, and a few thousand others, where cultures clash and vehicles collide and the simple act of of ‘crossing over’ takes on new meaning, not to mention the modern airline-hub Big Meta-Border cities, e.g. Istanbul, Moscow, Dubai, Bangkok, Singapore, Cairo, Jo-burg, Lima, Delhi and others…

    And Koh Kong on the border of Thailand and Kampuchea is no different, Kampuchea (Cambodia) the bastard big brother of Thailand, long ago fallen on hard times and left to fend for itself against the predations of its offspring, only rescued by the noblesse oblige of the Foreign Legion francais…
    (More …)

     
  • hardie karges 2:44 pm on February 14, 2017 Permalink | Reply  

    Buddhist Boot Camp Comparison, part II: Suan Mokh vs. Mahasi… 

    streaming consciousness...

    img_1935 Foreign meditators at Mahasi

    Author’s note: For those of you who read my blogs regularly, then you might remember that I did this once before, with Wat Suan Mokh near Surat Thani, Thailand, and Kopan Monastery in Kathmandu, Nepal, here. But those are two different types of Buddhism, so as different as apples and oranges, really. Mahasi Monastery in Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma), is the same Theravada branch of Buddhism as Suan Mokh, so closer in orientation. And for my traveler’s perspective of Mahasi, here

    img_1936 Meditation at Mahasi

    Of course, not everything fits conveniently into a quick little list, so I’ll explain, expand and expound. WSM has fixed sessions on the first ten days of every month, so just show up the day before and sign up, no pre-registration. MM is even less formal. Just show up any morning and sign up. I suppose either could be full, so…

    View original post 709 more words

     
  • hardie karges 2:42 pm on February 9, 2017 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: , , Mahasi Monastery, , , Rangoon,   

    Ten Days in Mahasi Monastery, Yangon: None flew over the cuckoo’s nest… 

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    Mahasi Monastery in Yangon, Myanmar

    Somewhere nearby a gong sounds–loudly. Then someone beats a drum. Then again. And again. Then every dog in the surrounding neighborhood howls in anything but unison, as I smile thinking about Allen Ginsberg, howling, growling, smiling somewhere out there but not Heaven, crazy wisdom incarnate, poet’s blood unrepentant…

    The air is still fresh and cool at night at this time of year in Yangon (Rangoon) and the scene at 0600 at Mahasi Monastery is a bit surreal: monks and nuns float through the monastery grounds in the moonlight, marching weeping shadows creeping. Ruby-robed monks line up in the streets with beggars’ bowls in hand, primed for the pump, while nuns float through on gossamer wings, all dressed in pink, with nothing to think… (More …)

     
    • Esther Fabbricante 9:15 pm on February 9, 2017 Permalink | Reply

      Deep stuff – explained well.

  • hardie karges 1:43 pm on February 6, 2017 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: Mawlamyine, Mon, , , Thanlwin   

    Mawlamyine, Myanmar: Saving the Best for Last… 

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    The bus pulls into Mawlamyine after an all-day truck from the capital Yangon and I’m immediately flashing back to Saigon, Hanoi, Viangchan, or Phnom Penh, take your pick, c. 1995 or thereabouts, just coming out of the self-imposed shadows, them not me, but wait a minute, let me think, dirty broke-down funky and authentic, before all the development, all the tourists and the humans from the West, all wanting a piece of the action, all wanting a bit of loose change, hopefully for the better not worse…

    But there are no money changers here, not yet anyway, just banks and ATM’s, and ‘no beer no alcohol’, say all the signs, in the restaurants at least, unlike Inle Lake, there advertising ‘mojitos caiparinhas gin and tonic’ you name it, but here lotsa Chinese and Muslims, and most hotels close at 10 p.m. or 10:30, three red lights and a rush hour inversely proportional to Yangon’s. But the real action is down on the Thanlwin River, with markets both black and white, Mawlamyine’s lifeline and raison d’etre (More …)

     
  • hardie karges 11:44 am on January 30, 2017 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: , Inle Lake,   

    Inle Lake, Myanmar: It’s a Wet Dream…. 

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    Inle Lake Fisherman

    For the first time, I’m annoyed at Burma, probably even pissed, at having to pay an entrance fee to the tourist complex at Inle Lake, based in Nyaungshwe. I mean: preservation of an archaeological zone is costly, and expensive, too, but Inle has none of that, and Nyaunshwe is a bit shabby, if you don’t mind me saying, a coat of dust covering the entire affair, tourists included. What are we paying for, anyway?

    But the main offense is the mere proliferation of tourist amenities, albeit without the aforementioned infrastructure. This is something that has been lacking—refreshingly—so far in Burma, and really the reason to justify the higher prices, like paying a premium bride price for a virgin. And the main marketing pitch seems to be toward millennial malingerers, looking for alcohol and a place to drink it… (More …)

     
  • hardie karges 3:28 am on January 20, 2017 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: Ayeyharwaddy, , Irawaddy, Mandalay,   

    Burma Up North: The Road to Mandalay… 

    img_1773…sounds romantic and all, but it isn’t so much, really, just asphalt and gravel, like anywhere else. Fortunately there are other options, like the train, plane, or boat. I’d like to say that the boat ride to get here from Bagan makes it all worthwhile—but it doesn’t, not really, though admittedly it is more comfortable than pot-holed roads and betel-chewing Burmese drivers…

    At any given moment the average Burmese working stiff is working a wad of chew that would make a Cincinnati Red pitcher green with envy. But don’t startle him or he may accidentally unload a dollop of spittle your direction that just might ruin your day. At least they don’t drive like the maniacs in Thailand. Burma is chilled by comparison—and the roads simply won’t allow it…

    img_1744But the river trip really has nothing much to see, not until you get to Sagaing, and that’s an easy day-trip from Mandalay, anyway. It’s not like there are loads of cool river villages and towns to view along the way. There just aren’t. So I’d say the river trip is optional—at best. Burma is not cheap, anyway, so save your money for something more worthwhile, like paying your entry fee to selected sites, like the archaeological zone at Bagan or the human zoo at Inle Lake—free sarcasm available upon request…

    But I don’t think Mandalay deserves the bum rap that it sometimes gets. Sure, it’s a big busy city, but I’ve seen worse. At least it’s walk-able, something you’d have difficulty saying about Bangkok, Jakarta, or many other places in SE Asia, or the world, either, for that matter. And what it lacks in charm, it makes up in open space, including a massive palace complex and a commanding hill-as-pilgrimage-site like only Burma really knows how to do it—okay, so maybe China, too…

    What I don’t like so much about Mandalay is that the quality of refreshing innocence available elsewhere seems to be singularly lacking here. And of course, that’s most easily measurable amongst the taxi drivers. Whereas in Yangon the first price quoted is pretty accurate and honest, God bless them, in Mandalay that doesn’t hold true, and in fact they can be as rape-atious as anywhere in the world. They beat me on the price from the boat landing to my hotel, so I was on guard after that…

    img_1777After the long walk to Mandalay Hill AND a long confusing walk up to the top, I somehow managed to come down a different path, despite my best efforts. So that kind of disorientation is always a good time to hail a taxi, so I proffered offers to the local moto-boys. The first one asked 30,000 kyat (about $25), at which I sggested he needed psychological help, and responded with an offer of 3000, which I figured to be about right, walking away to make my point…

    …which is what you have to be willing to do, of course, if you want the right price. Anyway, I walked over, so I figured I could walk back, so that helps. Another bike-boy came up and did the trip for 2500. It also helps if you know the name of landmarks in the local tongue, correctly pronounced and with the right tones. The main market is zeigyo, pronounced zay-joe not ziggy-o. Don’t f*ck with me, m*otherf*cker…

    So yes, Mandalay is guilty of the same crimes as Paris and the same samsara pitfalls as Kathmandu, but it ain’t all that bad, really. But no, Mandalay is not a place to fall in love with, more like a place to bide your time, a place for life to happen while you make other plans…

    img_1779Those plans could include excursions in any direction, though Shan state to the east is the big lure for me, with close relations to ethnic Tais in Thailand and Laos and China, too, the Far east of the state arguably more ‘Thai’ than Burmese, and an open question for me as to whether and how well I might be able to communicate, what with my knowledge of standard Thai, Laotian and northern Thai dialect…

    The Burmese and Thai language have little or nothing in common, unlike Khmer and Thai, unless you count the similarities between the Thai and Burmese words for two-wheeled conveyances, ‘mo-to-cy’ in Thai and ‘mo-to-by’ in Burmese, apparently deriving from a common Sanskrit root (cue laughter)…

    Oh well, I guess it’ll have to wait, unless my meditation retreat in Yangon falls through, something Burma has become known for, apparently, though not the inspiration for this trip. But that’s where I’ll go after a brief stop at Inle Lake, and that’s worth more to me than all the travel in the world. Mindlessness or mindfulness? Tough choice, yeah, right…

     

     

     

     
    • Esther Fabbricante 3:58 pm on January 20, 2017 Permalink | Reply

      Amazing insight.

  • hardie karges 2:22 pm on January 14, 2017 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: Bagan, , , Mt. Popa, , stupas,   

    Angkor What? Buddhist Field of Dreams in Bagan, Myanmar… 

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    One of many ruins around Bagan…

    The first thing you notice on the bus up from Yangon to Bagan is that the entire countryside seems empty. As Gertrude Stein put it so aptly when describing Oakland, CA: “There is no there there.” Now this may indeed be the new road, so avoiding the population centers directly, but still: in Thailand every available parcel of land would have a ‘For Sale’ sign before the road was even finished, and there would be new developments springing up as fast as the equipment could be trucked in from China…

    But when we finally do get off the main road and into some villages, then you see why. It’s poor, dirt poor. If Communism stopped a clock for those countries that only began ticking again in 1991, then ‘Burmese socialism’ stopped a clock which is only now beginning to tick some quarter century after its Commie neighbors in SE Asia. Better late than never, I suppose…
    (More …)

     
  • hardie karges 12:30 pm on January 9, 2017 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: , , , , Pagoda, Shwedagon,   

    It’s Myanmar now, no more Bummer: Welcome to Yangon… 


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    The Golden Spires of Shwedagon Pagoda

    I’ve been to the Burmese/Thai border-town Tachilek many times on visa runs, and so have had my eye on the country for years, while never having a pressing need to collect the stamp, just to satisfy my personal mandate to visit every country in the world before I die—or it does…

    And I’ve been to the Thai-Burmese border town of Mae Sot a few times, too, and even though it’s on the Thai side, while the other is officially Burmese, it always felt more truly Burmese to me, Muslim Burmese mostly, refugees I suppose, and complete with nearby violence and cross-border excursions from Karen (no, not her) tribal violence in the area… (More …)

     
    • Esther Fabbricante 3:54 pm on January 9, 2017 Permalink | Reply

      Beyond my imagination!

  • hardie karges 2:32 am on January 7, 2017 Permalink | Reply  

    HARDIE’S HYPER-AWARD for Country with Worst Hotel Rooms in 2016: Malaysia 

    img_0746As previously blogged: “I don’t know where Malaysia, and the Phillipines, and Mexico, and maybe a few others, got the idea that rooms without windows are acceptable—but they’re not. On Expedia, they’re generally specified that way (no doubt from cruel experience), but hostel-booking sites may forego the detail. That’s too bad, because I’m a hostel guy and now their WiFi isn’t even reliable—and that’s the reason I became a hostel guy in the first place! Not to mention the issue of fire escapes and proper egress, a technical term…

    So the first time it happened, I let it slide, foregoing the request to change. After three days of that I needed therapy, and arguably still do. Remember ‘sensory deprivation’ from the 60’s? It’s like that—or prison. This may prepare you for a bleak future, but I doubt it. They’re air-conditioned, though, if that’s your thing, so that’s the trade-off. I’ll pass. So I quit booking hostels here, and stuck to Expedia. Boo hoo. Of course, the problem with windows is noise from below, so pick your poison…”

    And that’s the deal. Many countries have it to some extent, but Malaysia seems to be the worst, which is too bad, since otherwise it’s a very nice country. All claustrophobia aside, imagined or otherwise, you wouldn’t want to be in a windowless room during a hotel fire–case closed. It’s Chinatown, Jake. Good luck out there…

     
    • Esther Fabbricante 3:04 am on January 7, 2017 Permalink | Reply

      Our experience of a room with no windows – is sometimes we play bridge in the ballroom at the country club – and partitions are affixed – thereby making the windows availale for only the outside area. That is tolerable from 9:30 a.m. until 2:00 p.m. And if we were only sleeping in a windowless room, I think that might be acceptable.

    • davekingsbury 11:01 am on January 7, 2017 Permalink | Reply

      Even if they were free I’d think hard about taking one …

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