Updates from April, 2015 Toggle Comment Threads | Keyboard Shortcuts

  • hardie karges 1:20 am on April 28, 2015 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: , Gonder   

    Escape To Addis & A Better Bus To Gonder 

    History Speaks in Gonder, Ethiopia

    History Speaks in Gonder, Ethiopia

    Bite the bullet, pay $300+ for a forty-five minute flight… feels good to be back in Addis Ababa… decide to forego Lalibela to concentrate on Gonder and Bahir Dar since they lie along the same path… two days out and two days back, with overnight stops both ways by local bus. This is brutal; there’s got to be a better way: Selam bus…

    …catch my morning Selam bus and we start off into the Ethiopian outback, over hill and dale, like some cheap cliché going nowhere new, but very certain of the route. English signs pepper the shops in small towns even in the outback, wherever two roads cross and somebody might need a tire or a trinket or a beer, though I suspect the signs invoke status as much as service… not much in the Ethiopian outback anyway… northern part of Ethiopia heavily deforested, hardly a square inch not under the till or the hoof, barely a five o’clock shadow of cover. (More …)

    • Esther Fabbricante 3:24 am on April 28, 2015 Permalink | Reply

      I’m too tired to travel with you tonight.


  • hardie karges 3:16 pm on April 22, 2015 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: Djibouti, ,   

    Somaliland Stirred, Djibouti Shaken 

    Picture of Market in Djibouti that cost me dearly

    Picture of Market in Djibouti that cost me dearly

    May 2009

    (We get no peanuts, but we do get to Djibouti on time.)

    …my hopes are soon dashed…  If this is French colonial glory, then I’m Napoleon in rags… French legacy of high prices and pretentiousness only…  airport itself offers the first clue, single exchange office only opening after the guy can be found to service his single customer, me…  $30 three-day transit visa or $60 thirty-day visa, decisions decisions…

    Downtown not much better, squalid and dirty… much higher prices than neighboring countries.  Cabbies obnoxious, driving old green-and-white honkers that they like to back down the street in…  room has A/C and TV, though, and enough room to exercise if I want, something I’ve foregone for many days for lack of adequate food and water.  Refugees don’t work out.  My mental condition is deteriorating… got to plan my escape… (More …)

    • Esther Fabbricante 4:39 pm on April 22, 2015 Permalink | Reply

      All I can say is “You are a survivor!”

  • hardie karges 7:52 pm on April 14, 2015 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: , , Hargeisa,   

    Somaliland Stirred not Shaken; Chewed not Spat 

    Street Market in Somaliland

    Street Market in Somaliland

    …get on a bus for a country that doesn’t really exist, except in someone’s imagination: existential ball-juggling 401… Somalia now effectively divided into three, Somaliland relatively peaceful and open for business, connected by land to the also relatively peaceful states of Djibouti and Ethiopia. Somaliland issues visas and currency and guards its borders just like everyone else.

    …catch the first bus out of Harar at daybreak, make my connection in Jijiga and continue on, certain to make Hargeisa within the day now… Travel in Ethiopia not hard so much as slow, crammed in like proverbial sardines… the vast Ogaden Desert, cousin to the Arabian and Sahara, spread out endlessly ahead, highland Ethiopia maybe the only real break in a desert stretching from Morocco to China.

    You decrease in elevation as you increase in heat, by some adiabatic ratio, and the Christian passion and delicate features of the typical Ethiopian face evolve into something a bit different, the harsher and darker Somali features and the more rigid and vocal Islamic demeanor. (More …)

    • Esther Fabbricante 11:15 pm on April 14, 2015 Permalink | Reply

      Taking your life in your own hands, it seems. Scary. Doesn’t home sound good about now?

    • kc 6:01 pm on September 17, 2015 Permalink | Reply

      from the looks of the pics. and the article i posted, qat is no problem for the people. After all, if one can find serenity in a leaf, so be it. now for our own mj in MS……

    • hardie karges 8:16 pm on February 8, 2016 Permalink | Reply

      Reblogged this on Hyper-Travel: Basement Tapes & Bad Selfies and commented:

      My experience with Dallo Airlines, the one that had an explosion in mid-air, probably the exact same plane….

  • hardie karges 9:56 pm on April 7, 2015 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: Dire Dawa, , , ,   

    Following Rimbaud In Harar, Ethiopia…. 

    Ethiopia has desert, too...

    Ethiopia has desert, too… 

    May 2009

    …Addis Ababa bus station at 5 a.m. ain’t pretty… bus already quite full when I arrive… suspect some of the riders have been there all night… looks pretty lived-in… taxi driver asks if he can help.  Does a bear sh*t in the woods?

    Fortunately I have great faith in people’s goodness, especially those of the Book.  People were touched by the Book long before they ever had one thrown at them.  Still nothing cleans and scours the soul like fear, removing psychological debris and detritus long caked on and ground in, leaving you whiter if no brighter.  (More …)

    • Esther Fabbricante 11:15 pm on April 7, 2015 Permalink | Reply

      I am still speechless at your descriptive ability. My right eye is coming along and I am able to read a little more now – cataract surgery was a week ago tomorrow. We had had Easter and celebrated John and Greg’s birthdays; and Charla is vacationing with three girlfriends in Asheville, N. C. this week.

    • Esther Fabbricante 11:23 pm on April 7, 2015 Permalink | Reply

      I’m reading a little better, but still blurry and having lots of little floaters. Another appointment a week from today for Dr. Ford to determine the next step.


Compose new post
Next post/Next comment
Previous post/Previous comment
Show/Hide comments
Go to top
Go to login
Show/Hide help
shift + esc