#Prachuap #KhiriKhan #Thailand: City by the Bay(s)

Bay at Prachuap Kiri Kan, Thailand

Bay at Prachuap Kiri Kan, Thailand

May 2014

Prachuap Khiri Khan comes next, also a little peach of a city, situated on three beaches, as if one weren’t enough. And it is a revelation, just like Phet(cha)buri before it. If that one revealed itself as a temple city, then this one reveals itself as a beachy one, splayed out on three screens, one for each bay, only problem is my hotel’s at the wrong one, so I’m pissed at the world again, I the angry old man, seems like far too often for far too long, Buddhist non-attachment tested at every turn, non-attachment to hotel reservations the operative concept here…

First the tuk-tuk wanted a hundred baht for the ride, so I figured I’m getting ripped off, just like Laos just like Phetburi, so refuse it and walk, only problem is there IS no hotel where I’m expecting one, nowhere to be found until locals finally convince me it’s over on the other bay, meaning my reservation is wrong and my money’s already in somebody else’s pocket…

Street Fair in Prachuap Kiri Kan, Thailand

Street Fair in Prachuap Kiri Kan, Thailand

No problem, YES problem, but I’ll deal with that later, don’t want to be ten klicks out of town under any circumstances, so I get a ride to a recommended B&B, maybe the nicest place I’ve stayed in the last half-year, perfect place to cool my heels and cool my jets, let the anger flow out of me and the joy to flow into me, start each day with a glorious breakfast even if I don’t really need it, end each with a glorious beer even if I don’t really get a buzz…

This is one place in Thailand relatively unspoiled by tourism, where you can almost be just a regular person, if you’ve got the will and the language skill, almost just like home, almost just like Mama used to make, complete with Thai home cooking and eighty some-odd channels, but only half of them working under martial law…

Fishermen in southern Thailand

Fishermen in southern Thailand

Landscape like this is hard to find so far from the islands so close to the city, too bad I’ve already booked onward transportation or I might be tempted to stay awhile or might be tempted to come back at least, too bad it’s so hot, gotta go all the way south first to see if I can find cooler climes, hard to find fulfillment when the bars close at ten, so I chat up the lottery lady just out of habit, just to see if I still can, she with such a sweet smile anyway not like I got to make sh*t up, and easy to make lottery jokes, and yeah she’s into it, easily thirty years younger, good girl too, but I’m just going through the emotions…

Temple Monkeys in Prachuap Khiri Khan, Thailand

Temple Monkeys in Prachuap Khiri Khan, Thailand

The monkeys are nicer in Prachuap Khiri Khan, too, quite a chilled bunch of dudes compared to that set of screaming cretins guarding the sacred hill in Phetburi, ready to steal your baloney sandwich at the slightest opportunity, no these guys are pretty laid-back, picking nits and popping zits and making small talk with the boys in blue, all quite civilized…

Prachuap Khiri Khan lies at Thailand’s narrowest point, Burma just a stone’s throw away, and the threshold between central and south Thailand. But the fishermen make it feel like southern Thailand, they and their brightly colored boats. They even seem happy. Fortunately it hasn’t yet been totally ‘discovered’ by tourists… and exploited. I like that. I’ll be back, I have a feeling…

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