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  • hardie karges 12:53 pm on February 18, 2014 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: Anjuna, , , , , , , Mapusa, Panaji   

    Goa, part 2: Saudade y alegria, vinho y cafe… 

    Palette for the Palate: market in Mapusa, Goa

    Palette for the Palate: market in Mapusa, Goa

    The thing about Goa is that it’s no single one thing for any one single set of tastes. It is many different communities—and beaches—scattered over an entire Indian state. This is logistically problematic. If you aren’t careful, you might book a room far off the beaten track, without really knowing it. Fortunately I figured that out in advance. Motorbikes are standard issue here, but I don’t care for them, though it’s almost easier to just get one, than to have to avoid the constant offers to rent. If you really want to see everything and do everything, you’ll need one.

    This is a decentralized version of India at its most extreme, and presumably where most of its long-term ex-pats base and blend into the woodwork. India’s trying to limit it, but with little success, so as not to impact its legitimate tourist industry, which is really not much, by international standards. Goa claims a full third of India’s relatively meager—for its size—six to seven million annual tourist arrivals.

      (More …)

  • hardie karges 3:20 pm on February 14, 2014 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: Anjuna, , , , , ,   

    Goa, part 1: Video Night and All That Trance-Dance… 

    Anjuna Beach, Goa, India

    Anjuna Beach, Goa, India

    This is the point in a trip—about two-three months in—when I usually feel the need to go home, get domestic, charge some batteries, do some chores, and start planning the next one. That not being the operative concept these days, finding a chill deal on the road is the next best thing. One of the myths about long-term travel—and there are many—is that it requires constant motion, transfers and connections. Now that’s silly. After a couple months of some hard fast travel, it’s nice to kick back, buy some groceries, and do a little settling down, for at least a week or two. Goa’s good for that.

    Goa is a bit hard to describe and comparisons don’t come easy, simply because it’s unlike any place I’ve ever really been before. The easiest comparison might be with Bali, but it could only happen in India, really, even though its roots are Portuguese and European. That means that wine, beer, liquor—and bars—are freely available. Though not illegal elsewhere, bars are rare and ‘wine shops’ seldom seen and scuzzy. It seems as though, as in many Muslim countries, to drink alcohol in India is discouraged but tolerated, as long as you feel dirty and guilty about it in the process. (More …)

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