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  • hardie karges 10:17 pm on August 28, 2016 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: , , Pokhara, Thamel   

    Pokhara: Nepal's Better Half… 

    IMG_0569Pokhara is Nepal’s second city, and such a change from the first, that it’s almost hard to believe they’re in the same country. Where Kathmandu is noisy and chaotic, Pokhara (pronounced like a distinctly southern-drawled and gooey ‘okra’, y’all) is chilled and peaceful—almost TOO tranquil. I start to miss all the chaos and manic maniac drivers with foot on the gas and hand on the horn (I even had one flashing lights at me, so I stopped in the middle of the road to force him to do the same, just because I could)…

    Of course, I’m talking about Lakeside, where all the tourists and local groovers hang, and full of spa-like accoutrements, boutiques and yoga, trekking centers and restos, caffeine and alcohol. But there’s another Pokhara, too, the original one, just up the road a piece, as high up as you can get in that particular valley, and filled with goldsmiths and silver, as opposed to the lakeside scene that tourism built. So I had to go check it out, just to get some traffic to avoid, if nothing else… (More …)

    • Esther Fabbricante 11:27 pm on August 28, 2016 Permalink | Reply

      Your adaptation and use of words are so remarkable! Where did you learn to be such a writer?

      • hardie karges 3:42 am on August 29, 2016 Permalink | Reply

        After the first million words, I think, I decided to call myself a writer… 🙂

  • hardie karges 12:50 am on August 12, 2016 Permalink | Reply
    Tags: Durbar Square, Freak Street, , , , Thamel   

    Kathmandu, Nepal: Namaste’s and other cliches 

    IMG_0496(Sigh) Finally! I can use the word ‘Namaste’ without feeling like a total New Age newbie, intoning with every simple ‘hello’ the implied meaning that ‘I bow to the divine in you while you return a bow to the tourist in me’ when all I really want to do is say ‘hi’ or maybe ‘good morning’ and you can do that here, since it’s embedded in the language, like Hindi, no accident, brought here by the Gurkhas and now the lingua franca for lack of better options. It is close to Hindi and uses the same Devanagari alphabet…

    Considering that two months ago to the day I had a catheter up my little thingie AND THAT FELT GOOD considering the options, I’m glad to able to take 3mi/5km walks these mornings in Kathmandu, just like old times just like old spaces old places, last here some twenty-odd years ago, and then only briefly, figured no big deal “I’ll be back soon” and it never happened until now on the spur of the moment through inspiration in the most unlikely of places: my in-laws… (More …)

    • Isolated_girl 1:17 am on August 12, 2016 Permalink | Reply


      : )

    • Esther Fabbricante 2:26 am on August 12, 2016 Permalink | Reply

      Your life and descriptions are unbelievable. I would not be able to eat the food, find my way around, much less survive.

    • thisisyouth 10:13 pm on August 14, 2016 Permalink | Reply

      Good post, I like your writing style. You captured Kathmandu very well.

    • Angela A 4:39 pm on August 18, 2016 Permalink | Reply

      Interesting read! I will be going to India and Nepal this December. A little nervous!

      • hardie karges 6:38 am on August 19, 2016 Permalink | Reply

        Thanx! Nothing to worry about, unless you’re squeamish at the sight of poverty; certainly safe enough… stay tuned!

    • kabiraj 12:23 am on October 28, 2016 Permalink | Reply

      after reading i just thought why didn’t I find this blog before, really articulated by your idea and especially the saying I bow to the divine in you while you return a bow to the tourist in me and wifi vs electricity things

      • hardie karges 12:47 am on October 28, 2016 Permalink | Reply

        Welcome, I only recently rechristened the blog with a new name, so probably more dharma and karma than travel for a while, at least. For more metaphysics, see my other blog, the two pretty much in parallel, if not sync, these days: https://hkarges.wordpress.com/

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